Alexander von Ungern lists here, for each year, some of the climbs that were special to him.
2023
Our Son Max is born in November 2022, and we spend less time in the mountains or climbing long steep faces, and climb more at crags, improving our sport climbing, trad climbing in Cadarese IT and dry tooling in Naz. There are still a few memorable ascents for this year:
cerro Saturno, 21.7, 5000m high, with my step daugther, my fiancee and my 8 months old Son Max! before heading down into the Yungas cloud forest, during which the mules abandonned us. We hiked 2 days (instead of initially planned 3, with a water bottle, 2 goretex jacket, a back back for the baby and a machete in the jungle)
and then within a week, I have 3 consecutive opportunities, which belong to the "harder" multi pitch rock climbs I have done:
Métal Hurlant, 9.9, el Dorado, Grimsel Pass, CH, 15 pitches 6b (6a+ obl.), partly trad, with Birte
Le premier matin du monde, FR, Perron de Vallorcine, 14.9.23, 7a+, 11 pichtes, mostly trad, Gael Mauron (on his 40th Birthday!) & Alexander
voie Loretan, CH, Waldeckspitze Nord, Gastlosen, 17.9.23, 7a+, 5 pitches, Oliver & Alexander
Ice climbing in Norway, 22.12.23 - 1.124, with a grand mother baby sitting Max, while me and my fiancée, climbing 10 different routes (mostly WI5), adding to 23 pitches in the Rjukan Valley. I will especially remember "Verdens Ende", "Sabotörfossen", Trapfossen" and "Fossekjeringa"
2022
Wadi Rum, JO, 16-27.04, trad climbing trip on desert sandstone. We climbed around 70 pitches, on the best-rated routes the region has to offer, the sandstone was better than expected, and the belay stations were less sketchy than expected. It was quite warm in the desert, and probably the best climbing trip I had so far!
Ikarus and Genius, CH, Dômes du Slot (VS), 2 10 pitches routes, trad, 6a + and 6b, with long alpine approaches.
Acotango (6050m) and Parinacota (6330m) Volcanoes, BO, 23 & 25.7, with a 5 months pregnant Fiona, and a future Baby !
Gorges du Verdon, FR, 26.9 - 4.10, multi pitch climbing in the gorges du Verdon, every day, except for one ! Among the very nice and memorable routes are Pâte D'amande, on which we almost got benighted, and "les fils de l'haltères et du Pan", as pretty much every pitch was excellent !
rares journées, CH, 16.10, 6 pitches 6b+, sustained route, with Fion, 10 months pregnant by then !!
2021
Gastlosen, CH, préalpes fribourgeoises, 25 & 28.02.21, traverse of the central and northern parts of the Gastlosen. Snow was present on the approach, but the rock was dry, and the weather abnormally warm.
Valle del Orcko, IT, 14 & 15.05.21, Orechia del pachydermo y fisura delle despezperazione, were two routes of outstanding quality, which challenged Alex both mentally and physically.
Motörhead, CH, el dorado Grimselpass, 20.06.21, a classic 16 pitch route (max 6b) , mostly trad protected. On the way down, Fiona and Alex found a Ibex skull which is now in the living room.
Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 31.8.21, Laba-Hudson route (D), which is the ridge on the left of the infamous West Face. We Bivied at a col around 5200m altitude. The next morning, a rockfall cut the rope in the middle, just as we started the climb !
Chachacomani, BO, Cordillera Real, 21.8.21, FA Traverse from the «Amazon basin» side of the mountain. The ridge on the way up proved technically challenging, overcoming many granite spires, before melting penitentes made for an exhausting final stretch to the summit which we reached by night.
2020
As the Coronavirus started, Alexander travelled back to Switzerland. This was the opportunity to climb some of the classics in the Alps, among which these left dear memories to him.
Mont Blanc, FR, Chamonix, 30.7.20, traverse from le refuge des cosmiques, via the 3 monts route and descent along the normal gouter route, Benoit Lotter
Piz Bernina & Piz Palü, CH, Graubunden, 01.08.20, traverse along the bianco grat. The combination is dubbed the Psycho Grat, with Aldo Guerrero
Elsa, Gastlosen, CH, préalpes fribourgeoise, 10 pitches, 6c, Pierick Doriot
Matterhorn / Cervin, CH, hörnligrat, alpes pennines, 15.9.20, Lara Lauper
Lenzspitze, Nadelhorn, Stecknadelhorn & Hohbärghorn, CH, Alpes pennines, traverse starting with the North face of the Lenzspitze 16.11.20, Fiona Tummo, best outing of the year !
2019
Skitour Mururata, BO, Cordillera Real, 5890masl, normal route, F, 03/03/19, with Daniel Aramayo, Marie Pissort y Alejandro Escofie, incredible snow conditions and weather.
Picacho Kasiri, BO, Cordillera real, 07.04.19, 8 pitches 6a+ FA (?), containing scary loose rock sections, with Marcelo Gomez, on my 4th try !
Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 10.04.19, AD+, we climbed the french route of Huayna Potosi from the base of the mountain, and ascended most of the face while simul climbing.
Chachacomani, BO, Cordillera Real, 18.05.19, D+, Directe route in the south face, accessed by the col between Jakoceri and Chachacomani from the normal route, for my birthday, 1 client.
Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 22.05.19, D-, American Route, we made a bivy at the base of the face, simul climbed the 60° steep and 900m high west face, within 10H30, protected from the wind, 1 client.
Illimani, BO, Cordillera Real, 6439m,25.05.2019, AD+, integral traverse, made a bivy before and after the 13km long snowy ridge which contains 4 summits above 6000m, 1 client and Marcelo Gomez
Elbrus, RU, Caucasus, 5642m, 08.7.19, PD, whereas we summited with perfect weather on the 9th, we got caught into a snowstorm 3 days later, on a second attempt, with my second client.
Tocllaraju, PE, Cordillera Blanca, 6030m, 11.08.19, with one female client, 58 years old. She crushed it !
2018
Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, BO, Cuernos del Diablo, Tenazas, Cresta Akapana & Cresta la Vertebra, april 2018, during my IFMGA mountain guide training.
Aguja Negra, BO, Cordillera Real, AD, 24.3.18, 5400m, corkscrew from the Southern slope towards the west to the summit
3 new routes on the east face of Charquini, BO, Cordillera real, 3.5.18 , 28.6.18 and 12.07.18, traditional rockclimbing, 5c/6b obl and 6a+, Jules Tusseau, Felix Leger and Juvenal Condori.
Huayna Potosi, ascent from the jungle, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, AD, 5.8.2018, 5 clients, we started our ascent in Chairo at 1260m altitude at the beginning of the choro trail.
Picacho Kasiri, BO, Cordillera real, 09.10.18, 9 pitches 6a+, very adventurous, FA (?), with Juan Gabriel Estellano
2017
Huallomen via del Querubin, BO, Cordillera real, 5500m, 01.05.17, with Pacific Machaca, loose rock, deep snow, rotten Ice, A little Epic topping out at night. TD+
ski tour circumnavigation of Charquini, BO, Cordillera real, 5200m, 13.03.17,with Clément Larevierre, adding over a 1000m of altitude difference.
3 peak traverse, BO, Hampaturi,serkhe kollu 5548m and its 2 neighbours, 19.03.2017, 1500m altitude difference, technical parts and 6 rappels
Illimani, BO, Cordillera real, 7-8-9 de Junio, ICE MEMORY glaciology project, making shure that safety recommendations are respected.
Condoriri - Cabeza del Condor, BO, Cordillera real, 5680m, 15.06.2017, D, directe route, Michael Ellis.
Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 7/2017, AD+, We followed the South ridge route and ended on the South summit
Chearoco, BO, Cordillera real, 6127m, 7/2017, AD+, in a single push from BC.
Pomerape, BO, Cordillera occidental, 6240m, 7/2017, AD, SE ridge, miscommunication with the driver and we walked approx 20km extra !
2016
Jankho Huyo circumnavigation, BO, Cordillera real, sumitting Jiskha Pata 5500m on the way, 08-09.04.2016, F, with a little bivy on the way, Aldo riveros and students.
Janchallani, BO, Cordillera real, 5450m, 29.04.2016, D, first ascent in the left gully from the SW face, Carlos Vasquez.
Ala Izquierda, BO, Cordillera real, 5550m, 01.05.2016, D, left ice fall route (coming out left of the hanging serac), Carlos Pineda & Roberto Gomez.
Los cuernos del Diablo, BO, Cordillera quimsa Cruz, 5400m, 13.05.2016, 6c+, 6 pitches on the left of "Inti wiracocha, with Sebastian Rojas and Pacific machaca.
FA on Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 19.05.2016, D, NE ridge Aspirante 2016, many short pitches on the ridge before we reached the glacier, Juvenal Condori & Carlos Pineda.
Cuchillo, BO, Cordillera Apolobamba, 13.06.2016, PD, 5480m, eastern ridge, done during the trekking from pelechuco to curva, 1 client.
West face of Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 20.6.2016, D, american route, hard frozen ice from bottom to top of the route, full moon night, round trip from casa blanca within 16 hours, Sebastian Rojas
SW ridge traverse on Mullu Apacheta, BO, Cordillera Real, 14.09.2016, AD+, following a granite ridge, great adventure !
Wila Lloje, BO, Cordillera Real, 15.09.2016, AD+, almost no snow, steep section under the summit.
FA trad climbing routes on khala cruz, BO, Cordillera Real, 5150m, 23.10.16, 6b, 4 estaciones - 6b and el techito de la granja A2-6a+, south face, Marcelo gomez and Damien freemantle
Lullaillaco, CL, Cordillera Central, 6740m, 17.11.16, PD, normal route from the chilean side, 1 client, 1500m d+.
cerro Aconcagua, AR, Cordillera Central, 6962m, 16.12.16, F, normal route, 1 client, the traverse around 6500m had no trail and prone to get into a slide.
2015
Isluga volcano, CL, Isluga NP, 5000m, F, 12/1/15, we got caught in a nasty sulfur cloud near the top !
Blitzkrieg - Unnamed peak, BO, Sajama NP, 5100m, 15/1/15, 3 trad climbing pitches, 5 french scale, most probably first ascent. We were not only rather efficient on the approach and during the climb, but also almost got stroke by a lightening on the summit !
Ojos del Salado, CL, atacama region - paso san fransisco, 6900m, 24/2/15, normal route, PD, 8 pax.
ski tour on Huayna Potosi, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, 13/5/15, Ski Tour along the normal route summiting through the pala grande, 11 persons in total ! The last ascent of a trip during which we skied Charquini 5200m, Chacaltaya 5400m, Mururata 5900m, Acotango 6050m and Parinakhota 6330m in only 2 weeks !
Condores y Picaflores, BO, cordillera real, 5100m aprox, 19/5/15, 5 pitches trad climbing on the south face of Khala Cruz, 6a, with pacific machaca
FA Milluni ridge, BO, cordillera real, 5430m, part of the Huayna Potosi massif, 03/06/15, 6 pitches, mixed climbing in the S face, cloudy condors, TD, with pacific machaca
rockclimbing in Hatun Machay & los Olivos, Huaraz, Peru, 12-15/06/15, bolted sport routes.
Alpamayo, PE, cordillera blanca, from sta-cruz Valley, french directe route, 19/06/15, reverso, 6 pitches, TD.
Skiing Huayna Potosi, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, 16/07/15, descent on snowboard and skis through pala grande and glaciar viejo, 4 pax, leading position, AD.
Pequeño Alpamayo directe route, BO, cordillera real - condoriri massif, 5425m, D, 08/08/15, 1 pax, leading position
Condoriri – cabeza del condor, BO,Cordillera Real, 5680masl, normal route, AD+, 08/08/15, leading position,
Hampaturi granite towers, BO, part of Hathi kollo in the Hampaturi massif, 5150m, 5 pitches 6a+, first ascent, JG Estellano & Lilen, reverso.
Volcan Iruputuncu, BO, Salar de Uyuni, 4890m, 20/09/15, south face, F, 2 pax, the active crater was very impressive.
FA on Pico triangular, BO, cordillera real, 5600m, 29/09/15, D+, thanks for coming, first ascent with Gregg Beisley, solo & 2 pitches reverso mixed climbing.
FA on Serkhe Kollo, BO, cordillera real, 5300m, 6/10/15, TD, Waterworld, first ascent with robert rauch & Jose Callisaya, reverso climbing 6 pitches W5 waterfall.
FA on Ala Izquierda, BO, cordillera real, 5550m, 25.11.2015 , D+, new Variant through a gully on the right of the directe route, Pacific Machaca.
2014
Mt. Aconcagua, AR, PN Aconcagua - prov. Mendoza, 6962masl, normal route, F, 19/1/14, 6 pax, witnesses Luis Jesus Catacora, Jean-Benoît Coppey, we turned back 400m altitude under the summit because of Avalanche danger. First time o spent 60 hours on a bus drive !!
Zongo Glaciar Ski tour, BO, Huayna Potosi, 5400m, between Pico Italia and pico Milluni, with the famous Padre Topio from Peñas. It was interesting to return to a roadblocked La Paz, trying to manage my huge ski bag in the public transport.
Cumbre to Huayna Potosi traverse, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, normal route, AD, 18/4/14, climbed within a day from Zongo pass. We started our trip 6 days earlier at La Cumbre Pass including on our way the ascents of Wila Manqulisani, Charquini, Pico Milluni and Pico triangular, Huayna Potosi being the 5th consecutive summit, we then shortcutted onto the choro trail and finished in Coroico,Christophe Cisarovsky & Alexander von Ungern.
directe route on Pyramide Blanca, BO, Condoriri Massif - Cordillera Blanca, 5270m, South face, D, 22/05/14, guiding one client.
Ski tour on Chachacomani, BO, Cordillera real, 6080 m, normal route, PD, 26/05/14, the last 50m where steep (50°), 1 person, leading position
Soloing the directe route of Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, cordillera real - condoriri massif, 5425m, D, 17/6/14
British route on Huallomen, BO, cordillera real - condoriri massif, 5550m, TD, 28/6/14, Gregg Beisley, reverso. It allowed me to retrieve climbing gear (some of which was mine), left behind during the rescue of a Canadian team 2 weeks before.
Huayna Potosi, ascent from the jungle, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, AD, 11,09.2014, 4 pax, we started our ascent in Chairo at 1100m altitude at the beginning of the choro trail, no mules.
cerro Tarapaca, CL, near Putre, 5800m, normal route, 1100m +d, F, 14/10/14, 2 pax, leading position, nasty scree slopes.
Volcan Guallatiri, CL, Lauca NP, 6070m, normal route, F, 16/10/14, 2 pax, leading position, active volcano.
Cerro Chuquiamanta, CL, Salar de surire, 5700m, normal route, F, 8/11/14, 10 pax, 1300m +d. Made a fire above 5000m altitude with dried out Yareta and Queñua wood on 2 occasions on that day !
2013
Volcan Acotango, BO, PN Sajama- Cordillera Occidental, 6050masl, Skitour going up through the crater, F, 9/4/13, working as guide, way down on the southern ridge of the crater with a 60 year old lady !
Maria lloco, BO, Cordillera Real, 5500masl, we found a none tedhnical route along the northern ridge, PD, 17/4/13, Thomas Wilken & Alexander.
skiing the freench route on Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6000masl, normal route to south peak, AD, 20/4/13, reverso, Benjamin Lehmann & Myself. Benjamin holds the record of being the only person of surviving a slide on his buttock through the whole face within 1 minute 30 seconds !
Volcan Sajama, BO, PN Sajama-Cordillera occidental, 6550masl, normal route, AD+, 1/6/12, leading position, way up within 3h30 and way down to the thermal waters the same day. The only 2 clients that were defintely stronger than i am. What a shame ! (one of them broke the impressive record of 16'000 m altitude difference in a day)
Illimani, BO, Cordillera Real, 6440masl, normal route to the south summit, AD, 8/8/13, guiding 2 persons. Another team had a little accident on the way down. It turned out to be a very long day for the rescue, taking additional 11 hours to bring the injured down from 6100m to 4400m !
FA on Wila Manquilisani BO, Cordillera Real, los Llokallas, new route on the north face, mixed terrain, AD+, 13/8/13, reverso, Chris Clarke & Alexander von Ungern. Ice gully 60° followed with rock climbing in the upper part.
Volcan Pichu pichu, Arequipa, Peru, 5910masl, PD, 25/10/13, 7 pax, everybody including an 84 old team member was on the top !
Volcan Lascar, Atacama, Chile, 5604masl, F, 5/11/13, guiding a group of 11 people, Lascar volcano is mentioned here as its active crater is quite a sight !
2012
skiing Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094 masl, way up normal route along the ridge, Benjamin Lehmann with the Snowboard & Alexander von Ungern with the skies take the directisima on the way down, AD, 25/3/12, both where leading other climbers on the way up.
Condoriri – right wing, BO,Cordillera Real, 5412masl, normal route, AD, 13/4/12, leading position, Paola Aramayo & Alexander von Ungern, we tried the condor head but there was too much fresh snow in the gully.
Solo trip to Hathi Kollo, BO, Hampaturi, Cordillera Real, 5400masl, normal route, AD, 21/4/12, hiking from La Paz city, through Valle de las Animas, within 2 days.
Serranias Murillo traverse, BO, Hampaturi, Cordillera Real, 5500masl, normal route, AD, 5/5/12, Paola Aramayo & Alexander von Ungern, part of an integral traverse from « la cumbre » to « choque khota ».
french route on Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6000masl, AD+, 20/7/12, leading position, with Yves Roduner, Damien Freemantle, we did not continue to the higher south summit, and walked down towards the normal route due to beginning of frostbites.
Skiing Illimani, BO, Cordillera Real, 6440masl, normal route to south summit, AD, 21/10/12, 6 climbers - Jules Tussot, Paola Aramayo, Benjamin Lehmann myself reached the summit, Benjamin Snowboarded down wearing the Pepino Costume, Alexander skied down. 2 day expedition without porters or mules. NB: Paola my dear wife was pregnant of our son Sebastian. We did not know it yet back then, making Sebastian the 7th member of the ascent.
2008
Cerro Plata, AR, prov. Mendoza, 6000masl, F, 3/2008, second man, Yoris Demars & Alexander von Ungern. 1750M altitude difference during the ascent. My first 6000m summit !
Cerro Mercedario, AR, prov. San Juan, 6720masl, normal route, AD, 4/2008, with Yoris Demars we got our butts kicked pretty hard !
