Mountain climbs Curriculum of Alexander von Ungern

Cerro Penitentes, AR, prov. Mendoza, 4400masl, traverse, PD, 3/2008, reverso, Yoris Demars &  Alexander von Ungern

 

Cerro Rincon, AR, prov. Mendoza, 5200masl, PD mixto, 3/2008, reverso, Yoris Demars &  Alexander von Ungern

 

Cerro Vallecitos, AR, prov. Mendoza, 5400masl, PD mixto, 3/2008, reverso, Yoris Demars &  Alexander von Ungern

 

Cerro Plata, AR, prov. Mendoza, 5955masl, F, 3/2008, second man, Yoris Demars &  Alexander von Ungern

Cerro Mercedario, AR, prov. San Juan, 6720masl, normal route, AD, 4/2008, reverso, Yoris Demars &  Alexander von Ungern

Cerro san Fransisco, AR, prov, Tucuman, 6042masl, normal route from the san fransisco Pass, F, 4/2008, Alexander von Ungern Solo

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, Cordillera Real, 5425masl, normal route, AD, 6/2008, second man, guided climb

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094masl, directisima south summit, AD, 6/2008, second man, guided climb

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, Cordillera Real, 5425masl, normal route, AD, 18/9/11, leading position, Paola Aramayo & Alexander von Ungern

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, normal route normal route, AD, 20/10/11, leading position, Paola Aramayo, Johnatan El-Assad & Alexander von Ungern, we aborted the climb because a member felt altitude sick at ~5900masl

Huila Manquilisani, BO, Cordillera Real, 5200masl, direct routewest face – mixed terrain, D, 24/10/11, leading position, Johnatan El-Assad & Alexander von Ungern

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094masl, normal route, AD, 19/2/12, leading position, Paola Aramayo & Alexander von Ungern, we turned around at ~6000m because the ridge was covered by too much fresh snow

Skitour Chacaltaya, BO, Cordillera Real, 5300 masl, traverse towards Chrakini, 28/2/12, Chris Clarke, Robert Rauch & Alexander von Ungern

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094 masl, way up normal route along the ridge, Benjamin Lehmann with the Snowboard & Alexander von Ungern with the skies take the directisima on the way down, AD, 25/3/12, both where leading other climbers on the way up.

Condoriri – right wing, BO,Cordillera Real, 5412masl, normal route, AD, 13/4/12, leading position, Paola Aramayo & Alexander von Ungern, we tried the condor head but there was too much fresh snow in the gully.

Hathi Kollo, BO, Hampaturi, Cordillera Real, 5400masl, normal route, AD, 21/4/12, solo hiking from La Paz city, through Valle de las Animas, within 2 days.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094masl, french route, AD+,28/4/12, reverso, Benjamin Lehmann y Alexander, at the Bergschrund (~5700m) they turned round because of the Danger of Avalanche, way down on Snowboard and Ski

Hathi Kollo Satellite peak, BO, Hampaturi, Cordillera Real, 5100masl, normal route, 1/5/12, Thomas Wilken & Alexander von Ungern.

Serkhe Kollo, BO, Hampaturi, Cordillera Real, 5500masl, normal route, PD+, 5/5/12, leading position, Paola Aramayo & Alexander von Ungern, part of an integral traverse from « la cumbre » to « choquekhota ».

Serranias Murillo, BO, Hampaturi, Cordillera Real, 5300masl, traverse north-south, AD+, 6/5/12, leading position, Paola Aramayo & Alexander von Ungern, part of an integral traverse from « la cumbre » to « choquekhota ».

Pico Milluni, BO, Cordillera Real, 5700masl, normal route, AD, 9/5/12, reverso, François & Alexander von Ungern, skied down under the mixte terrain part.

Skitour Mururata, BO, Cordillera Real, 5890masl, normal route, F, 11/5/12, Francois & Alexander von Ungern.

Illimani, BO, Cordillera Real, 6440masl, normal route to south summit, AD, 14/5/12, leading position, Paola Aramayo & Alexander von Ungern

Volcan Acotango, BO, PN Sajama-Cordillera occidental, 6050masl, route on the left side (south) of the crater, F,  21/5/12, leading position, the whole group did summit the Volcano (9 people with guides).

Volcan Parinakhota, BO, PN Sajama-Cordillera occidental, 6330masl, normal route north face, PD-, 24/5/12, leading position,  2 clients, 2 guides & Alexander von Ungern summited the Volcano. 

Cerro Austria, BO, Cordillera Real, 5300masl, normal route, F, 8/6/12, leading position, the client & Alexander von Ungern reached the summit.

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, Cordillera Real, 5425masl, normal route, AD, 9/6/12, leading position, the client & Alexander von Ungern reached the summit.

Volcan Acotango, BO, PN Sajama-Cordillera occidental, 6050masl, route along the south ridge of the crater, F, 12/6/12, leading position, the client & Alexander von Ungern reached the summit.

Volcan Parinakhota, BO, PN Sajama-Cordillera occidental, 6330masl, normal route on the north face, PD-, 14/6/12, leading position, the client & Alexander von Ungern reached the summit.

Volcan sin nombre (?), BO, South Lipez-Cordillera Occidental, ~5000masl, behind Huallajara – laguna Colorada, F, 22/6/12, leading position, 4 clients and Alexander von Ungern reached the summit.

Volcan Licancabur, BO, South Lipez-Cordillera Occidental, 5924masl, normal route, 23/6/12, leading position, we turned around 50m altitude under the summit due to lack of crampons and ice covered snow.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6000masl, ruta francesa, AD+, 20/7/12, leading position, , Yves Roduner, Damien Freemantle & Alexander von Ungern, we did not continue to the higher south summit, and walked down towards the normal route due to beginning of frostbites.

Serkhe negro, BO, Cordillera Real, 5300masl, easy route starting in Serkhe valley towards the north face, 28/7/12, leading position, 2 clients & Alexander von Ungern reached the summit.

Serkhe Kollo, BO, Cordillera Real, 5500masl, normal route, PD, 29/7/12, leading position, the client & Alexander von Ungern reached the summit.

Illimani, BO, Cordillera Real, normal route to south summit, AD, 6440masl, 8/8/12, leading position, the 2 clients acompanied by Alexander von Ungern reached the summit.

Volcan Sajama, BO, PN Sajama-Cordillera occidental, 6550masl, normal route, AD+, 13/8/12, leading position, the 2 clients acompanied by Alexander von Ungern reached the summit.

Illimani, BO, Cordillera Real, 6440masl, normal route to south summit, AD, 21/10/12, 6 climbers - Jules Tussot, Paola Aramayo, Benjamin Lehmann y Alexander (leading) reached the summit, Benjamin Snowboarded down wearing the Pepino Costume, Alexander skied down. 2 day expedition without porters or mules.

Huila Manquilisani, BO, Cordillera Real, 5200masl, normal route, AD+, 28/10/12, reverso, Joel Godfroid & Alexander.

Volcan Lascar en Chile y Volcan Tunupa, 11/2012, the 2 clients & Alexander von Ungern reached the summits.

Hathi Kollo, BO, Cordillera Real, 5400masl, normal route, AD+, 20/11/12, leading position, Loic Pellissier & Alexander

Serkhe Kollo, BO, Cordillera Real, 5500masl, normal route, PD, 24/2/13, Louca Lerch, Benjamin Lehmann & Alexander, ski or snowboard on the way down.

multi pitch route, Peñas, 3/3/13, reverso, Benjamin Lehman & Alexander

Huila Manquilisani, BO, Cordillera Real, 5200masl, normal route, AD+, 13/3/13, leading position, Christian Volery & Alexander, cumbre

Japa Japani, BO, Hampaturi-Cordillera Real, 5200masl, normal route, F, 6/9/13, leading position, 2 clients & Alexander von Ungern reached the top.

Volcan Acotango, BO, PN Sajama- Cordillera Occidental, 6050masl, Skitour going up through the crater, F, 9/4/13, leading position, way down on the southern ridge of the crater with a 60 year old lady !  

Maria lloco, BO, Cordillera Real, 5500masl, route along the northern ridge, PD, 17/4/13, Thomas Wilken & Alexander.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6000masl, normal route to south peak, French route skiing on the way down, AD, 20/4/13, reverso, Benjamin Lehmann & Alexander.

Khasiri, BO, Hampaturi-Cordillera Real, 5350masl, aproach from the valley of laguna Serkhe, PD, 12/5/13, leading position, the client did summit.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094masl, normal route, AD, 28/5/13, leading position, 2 clients & Alexander von Ungern reached the top.

Volcan Sajama, BO, PN Sajama-Cordillera occidental, 6550masl, normal route, AD+, 1/6/12, leading position, way up within 3h30 and way down to the thermal waters the same day

Illimani, BO, Cordillera Real, 6440masl, normal route to south summit, AD, 6/6/13, leading position, 2 clients & Alexander von Ungern reached the summit.

Uturuncu, BO, South Lipez-Cordillera occidental, 6008masl, normal route 13/6/13, leading position, we started at 5400masl instead of 5700masl because of snowfall in the night. A few meters under the summit we got caught in a snowstorm. I tied the 2 clients into the rope to not loose them due to very bad visibility.

 

Serranias Alminallis, BO, Cumbre-Cordillera Real, 5200masl, F, part of the acclimation programm, 30/7/13, the 7 pax reached the top  

 

Cerro Kinkillosa, BO, Cumbre-Cordillera Real, 5000masl, F,  part of the acclimation programm, 31/7/13 the 7 pax reached the top.

 

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094masl, AD, 4/8/13, leading position, the 7 clients reached the top, Witnesses Marco Capriles, Mario Chura.

 

Illimani, BO, Cordillera Real, 6440masl, normal route to the south summit, AD, 8/8/13, leading position, 4 clients, Alexander von Ungern and Chuqui reached the summit. Another team had a little accident on the way down. It turned out to be a very long day for the rescue. Witness Mario Chura.

 

Huila Manquilisani BO, Cordillera Real, new route on the north face, mixed terrain, D, 13/8/13, reverso, Chris Clarke & Alexander von Ungern. Ice gully 60° followed with rock climbing in the upper part.

 

Pico Austria, BO, Cordillera Real,5300masl, normal route, F, 17/8/13, leading position, 3 clients where on the top with Alexander von Ungern

 

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, Cordillera Real, 5425masl, normal route, AD, 18/8/13, leading position, 2 clients where on the top with Alexander von Ungern

 

Serkhe negro, BO, Hampaturi-Cordillera Real, 5300masl, route ending on the north face, F, solo, 20/8/13

 

Serkhe Kollo, BO, Hampaturi-Cordillera Real, 5500masl,  normal route, 21/8/13, leading position,  Alexander von Ungern & Alcides Quispe as guides.

 

Charkini, BO, Cordillera Real, west ridge route towards satellite peak, AD, 13/9/13, solo  

 

Cerro Atoja, Puno, Peru, 4400masl, F, 16/10/13, 7 pax, everybody was on the top

 

Cerro Mesa, Chivay, Peru, 4700masl, F, 18/10/13, 7 pax, everybody was on the top

 

Volcan Pichu pichu, Arequipa, Peru, 5910masl, PD, 25/10/13, 7 pax, everybody was on the top.

 

Volcan Lascar, Atacama, Chile, 5604masl, F, 5/11/13, leading position, 11 pax, all but one eached the summit

 

Cerro Toco, Atacama, Chile, 5595masl, F, 6/11/13, leading position, 10 pax

 

Volcan Juriques, BO, South Lipez-Cordillera occidental, 5721masl, F, 7/11/13 , solo within 3h30

 

Volcan Licancabur, BO, South Lipez-Cordillera occidental, 5924masl, F, 8/11/13, leading position, 10 pax, Alexander von Ungern was the only guide, everybody reached the summit.

 

Volcan Tunupa, BO, Salar de Uyuni-Cordillera occidental, 5176masl, F, 11/11/13, leading position, 10 pax, approach from Coqueza

 

Volcan Acotango, BO, PN Sajama-Cordillera occidental, 6050masl, along the northern ridge of the crater, F,14/11/13, 6 pax, witnesses Hugo Ayaviri, Mario Chura

 

Cerro Wisaya, BO, PN Sajama-Cordillera occidental, 5000masl, F, 16/11/13, 6 pax, witnesses Hugo Ayaviri, Mario Chura

 

Volcan Parinakhota, BO, PN Sajama-Cordillera occidental, 6330masl, normal route, PD- 17/11/13, 6 pax, witnesses Hugo Ayaviri, Mario Chura

 

Volcan Pabellon, BO, PN Avaroa – prov. Sur Lipez, 5531masl, normal route, F, 2/1/14, 4pax, leading position

 

Volcan Licancabur, BO, PN Avaroa – prov. Sur Lipez, 5924masl, normal route, F, 3/1/14, 3pax, leading position

 

Mt. Aconcagua, AR, PN Aconcagua - prov. Mendoza, 6962masl, normal route, F, 19/1/14, 6 pax, witnesses Luis Jesus Catacora, Jean-Benoît Coppey, we turned back 400m altitude under the summit because of Avalanche danger

 

Zongo Glaciar Ski tour, BO, Huayna Potosi, 5400m, between Pico Italia and pico Milluni, 2 persons

 

Volcan Acotango, BO, PN Sajama, 6050m, N to S ridge,F, 11/3/14, 2 pax, leading position

 

Volcan Pomerape, BO, PN Sajama, 6260m, eastern ridge, AD, 12/3/14, 1 pax, leading position

 

Condoriri head, BO, Condoriri massif - cordillera real, normal route, AD+, 18/3/14, 2 persons, leading position, turned around after the gully because of melting snow (unsafe descent)

 

Khasiri, BO, Hampaturi range, 5375m, NE ridge, AD, 22/3/14, 4 pax, leading position

 

Pico Milluni, BO, Huayna Potosi - cordillera real, 3 pitches trad climbing, 6b,5,5c, Chris Clarke & Alex, leading position

 

Huila Manquilisani, BO, cordillera real, 5300m, normal route, D, 14/4/14, Christophe Cisarovsky & Alexander von Ungern, leading position

 

Charkini, BO, cordillera real, 5350m, traverse from N to S, PD, 15/4/14, Christophe Cisarovsky & Alexander von Ungern, leading position

 

Pico Milluni, BO, Huayna Potosi - cordillera real, 5400m, first peak of the ridge, 7 pitches from 4 to 6b, 16/4/14, Christophe Cisarovsky & Alexander von Ungern, leading position

 

Pico Triangular (the summit west of Pico Italia), BO, Huayna Potosi - cordillera real, 5650m, D, 17/4/14, Christophe Cisarovsky & Alexander von Ungern, leading position

 

Huayna Potosi, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, normal route, PD, 18/4/14, climbed within a day from Zongo pass, being the 5th consecutive summit, Christophe Cisarovsky & Alexander von Ungern, leading position

 

Cerro Takesi, BO, Hampaturi - Cordillera Real, 5300m, normal route, AD, 17/05/14, fresh snow made it difficult, 2 persons, leading position

 

Hathi Kollo, BO, Hampaturi - Cordillera Real, 5400m, normal route, AD, 19/05/14, fresh snow made the last part tricky, 2 persons, leading position

 

Pyramide Blanca, BO, Condoriri Massif - Cordillera Blanca, 5270m, South face route, D, 22/05/14, 1 person, leadin position

 

Chachacomani, BO, Cordillera real, 6080 m, normal route, PD, 26/05/14, ski tour, the last 50m where steep (50°), 1 person, leading position

 

Serranias Alminallis, BO, la cumbre - cordillera real, traverse, F, several 5000+ peaks along the ridge, 2 persons

 

Huayna Potosi, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, normal route, PD, 4/6/14, 1 person, leading position

 

Cerro austria, BO, cordillera real - condoriri massif, 5300m, normal rotue, F, 13/6/14, 10 persons group

 

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, cordillera real - condoriri massif, 5425m, normal route, AD+, 14/6/14, 3 pax, leading position

 

Pico Ilusion, BO, cordillera real - condoriri massif, 5300m, south face route, AD, 16/6/14, 2 persons, leading position

 

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, cordillera real - condoriri massif, 5425m, directe route, D, 17/6/14, solo

 

Huallomen, BO, cordillera real - condoriri massif, 5550m, english route, TD, 28/6/14, Gregg Beisley, reverso

 

cerro Takesi, BO, cordillera real - seranillas Murillo, 5050m, south ridge, trad climbing route, 5-6grade, 1/7/14, leading position

 

Milluni ridge, BO, cordillera real - Huayna Posoti massif, 5250m, south face, 200m d+ climb on mixed terrain, D, 3/7/14, leading position.

 

Huayna Potosi, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, polish route, AD-, 11/09/14, 2 persons, leading position, ascended starting at 1300m altitude in the jungle

 

Volcan Tunupa, BO, Salar de Uyuni-Cordillera occidental, 5176masl, F, 23/09/14, leading position, 3 pax, approach from Tahua, South ridge

 

Volcan Pabellon, BO, PN Avaroa – prov. Sur Lipez, 5531masl, normal route, F, 24/09/14, 1 pax, leading position

 

Uturuncu, BO, South Lipez-Cordillera occidental, 6010masl, normal route, F, 26/09/14, 3 pax, leading position, very strong winds.

 

Cerro Leon, CL, Atacama desert, 4800masl, Vizcacha directe route ;-), PD, 7/10/14, 2 pax, leading position.

 

Volcan Isluga, CL, near Pisiga boarder, 5400m, normal route, F, 10/10/14, 2 pax, leading position, noxious sulfur gases.

 

cerro Guan Guane, CL, Lauca NP, 5100m, normal route (SW ridge), F, 13/10/14, 2 pax, leading position, mice at the top !

 

cerro Tarapaca, CL, near Putre, 5800m, normal route, 1100m +d, F, 14/10/14, 2 pax, leading position, nasty scree slopes.

 

Volcan Guallatiri, CL, Lauca NP, 6070m, normal route, F, 16/10/14, 2 pax, leading position, active volcano.

 

Cerro Surunche, CL, near Putre, 3890m, normal route, F,4/11/14, 12 pax, acclimatizing.

 

Cerro Milagro, CL, near Putre, 4910m, normal route, F, 5/11/14, 12 pax.

 

Cerro Guane Guane,CL, on the western side of the payachatas, 5100m, normal route (SW ridge), F, 6/11/14, 12 pax.

 

Cerro Chuquiamanta, CL, Salar de surire, 5700m, normal route, F, 8/11/14, 10 pax, 1300m +d.

 

Acotango volcano, BO, Sajama NP, 6070m, normal route, F, 10/11/14, 12 pax, car gets up to 5690m !

 

Super mario, BO, Sajama NP, 4500m, 5B, first ascent trad climbing in the cliffs of the geysers Valley, 11/11/14.

cerro WisayaBO, Sajama NP, 5100m, normal route, F, 12/11/14, 6 pax, fire at the top.

Parinacota volcano, BO, Sajama NP, 6330m, normal route, F, 13/11/14, 10 pax.

 

Halcones / el canto del pajaro / Q'amasa, BO, Sajama NP, 4500m, respectively 5C, 6B, 6A+, first ascents trad climbing in the cliffs of the geysers Valley, 14/11/14.

 

Isluga volcano, CL, Isluga NP, 5000m, F, 12/1/15, we got caught in a nasty sulfur cloud near the top !

 

el barrenerro / la chimenea / techo de paja, BO, Sajama NP, 4500m, respectively 5C, 6A, 6B, first ascents trad climbing in the cliffs of the geysers Valley, 14/1/15.

 

Blitzkrieg - Unnamed peak, BO, Sajama NP, 5100m, 15/1/15, 3 trad climbing pitches, aprox 5 french scale, most probably first ascent.

 

Huayna Potosi, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, 23/1/15, normal route, 1 pax, too much snow on the final ridge, AD-.

 

Lascar volcano, CL, san pedro de atacama, 5600m, 14/2/15, normal route, F, 8 pax.

 

Cerro Toco, CL, san pedro de atacama, 5600m, 15/2/15, normal route, F, 8 pax.

 

Mulas muertas, CL, atacama region - paso san fransisco, 5300m, 18/2/15, normal route, F, 8 pax.

 

Barrancas blancas, CL, atacama region - paso san fransisco, 6040m, 19/2/15, normal route, F, 7 pax.

 

Cerro San Fransisco, CL, atacama region - paso san fransisco, 6042m, 20/2/15, normal route, F, 7 pax.

 

Ojos del Salado, CL, atacama region - paso san fransisco, 6900m, 24/2/15, normal route, PD, 8 pax.

 

Huayna Potosi, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, 4/3/15, ski tour along thenormal route summiting through the pala grande, 1 pax.

 

Khala Cruz, BO, cordillera real, 5184m, 11/4/15, normal route, 5 pax,PD.

 

Huayna Potosi, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, 13/4/15, normal route summiting through the pala grande, 5 pax,AD-.

 

Milluni Ridge, BO, cordillera real, 5100m aprox, 29/4/15, 3 pitches trad climbing on the south face of Khala Cruz, 5c.

 

Chacaltaya, BO, cordillera real, 5400m, 2/5/15, Ski tour, 11 pax.

 

Charquini, BO, cordillera real, 5200m, 3/5/15, Ski Tour on the south glacier, 11 pax.

 

Mururata, BO, cordillera real, 5960m, 15/5/15, Ski Tour, 11 pax.

 

Acotango, BO, PN Sajama, 6050m, 08/5/15, Ski Tour, 11 pax.

 

Parinakhota, BO, PN Sajama, 6330m, 9/5/15, Ski Tour, 11 pax.

 

Huayna Potosi, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, 13/5/15, Ski Tour along thenormal route summiting through the pala grande, 11 pax,AD-.

 

Condores y Picaflores, BO, cordillera real, 5100m aprox, 19/5/15, 5 pitches trad climbing on the south face of Khala Cruz, 6a.

 

Milluni ridge, BO, cordillera real, 5430m, part of the Huayna Potosi massif, 03/06/15, 6 pitches, mixed climbing in the S face, TD.

 

Caullaraju, PE, cordillera blanca, 5730m, in the southern part, near conococha, 10/06/15, leading position, F.

 

rockclimbing in Hatun Machay & los Olivos, Huaraz, Peru, 12-15/06/15, bolted sport routes.

 

Alpamayo, PE, cordillera blanca, from sta-cruz Valley, french directe route, 19/06/15, reverso, 6 pitches, TD.

 

Huayna Potosi, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, 16/07/15, descent on snowboard and skis through pala grande and glaciar viejo, 4 pax, leading position,

AD.

 

Placa del Aguila, BO, Peñas, 4200m, 05-06/08/15, 2 multi pitch rockclimbing routes, 5c & 6b, 1 pax, leading position.

 

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, cordillera real - condoriri massif, 5425m, directe route, D, 08/08/15, 1 pax, leading position

 

Condoriri – cabeza del condor, BO,Cordillera Real, 5680masl, normal route, AD+, 08/08/15, leading position,

 

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, cordillera real - condoriri massif, 5425m, normal route, AD, 18/6/14, 2 pax, leading position

 

Hampaturi granite towers, BO, part of Hathi kollo in the Hampaturi massif, 5150m, 5 pitches from 5b to 6a, first ascent, JG Estellano & Lilen, reverso.

 

Huayna Potosi, BO, cordillera real, 6094m, 7/09/15, ski descent through pala grande and glaciar viejo, 1 pax, leading position,

AD.

 

Wisaya, BO, Sajama National Park, 5014m, 16/09/15, normal route, F, 2 pax

 

Volcan Tunupa, BO, salar de uyuni, 5150m, 18/09/15, crater route, F, 2 pax

 

Volcan Iruputuncu, BO, Salar de Uyuni, 4890m, 20/09/15, south face, F, 2 pax, the active crater was very impressive.

 

Volcan Uturuncu, BO, qetena - sur lipez, 6010m, 23/09/15, F, 2 pax, we went up to 5700m with the vehicle !

Pico triangular, BO, cordillera real, 5600m, 29/09/15, D+, thanks for coming, first ascent with Gregg Beisley, solo & 2 pitches reverso mixed climbing.

Serkhe Kollo, BO, cordillera real, 5300m, 6/10/15, TD, tears for Chris, first ascent with robert rauch & Jose Callisaya, reverso climbing 6 pitches W5 waterfall.

Ala Izquierda, BO, cordillera real, 5550m, 25.11.2015 , D+, new Variant through a gully on the right of the directe route, Pacific Machaca.

Milluni ridge, BO, cordillera real, 5150m, 19.01.2015 , 6a+, 5 pitches trad climbing on a spur located on the south face of the milluni ridge, Sergio Condori.

Khala Cruz, BO, Cordillera real, 5150m,10.03.2016,PD, we folled the SW ridge, Roberto Gomez & Juvenal Condori.

Pico Italia, BO, Cordillera real, 5700m, 11.03.2016, AD+, we followed the Southern ridge, Roberto Gomez & Juvenal Condori.

Khala Cruz, BO, Cordillera real, 5050m, 03.04.2016, 6a, we opened a 2 pitch route on a spur of the SWW ridge, Carlos Pineda.

Jiska Pata, BO, Cordillera real, 5500m, 08-09.04.2016, F, we circumnavigated Jankho Huyo within 2 days, Aldo riveros and students.

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, Cordillera real, 5450m, 28.04.2016, D, directe route, Maximiliano Villar & Rolando Tarqui.

Ventanani, BO, Cordillera real, 5450m, 29.04.2016, D, first ascent in the left gully from the SW face, Carlos Vasquez.

Ala Izquierda, BO, Cordillera real, 5550m, 01.05.2016, D, left ice fall route (coming out left of the hanging serac), Carlos Pineda & Roberto Gomez.

Condoriri - Cabeza del Condor, BO, Cordillera real, 5680m, 27.04.2016, AD+, ridge variant normal route, Sebastian Rojas & Carlos Vasquez.

Los Porotos, BO, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, 5100m, 10.05.2016, 6b, el sufrimiento de peluchin, Maximiliano Villa & Eduardo Mondragon.

cerro Saturno, BO, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, 5400m, 15.05.2016, 5, many short pitches on the west face, Pedro Sermini & Maximiliano Villar.

Los cuernos del Diablo, BO, Cordillera quimsa Cruz, 5400m, 13.05.2016, 6c+, 5 pitches on the left of "Inti wiracocha, first ascent with Sebastian Rojas and Pacific machaca.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 19.05.2016, D, NE ridge, many short pitches on the ridge before we reached the glacier, Juvenal Condori & Carlos Pineda.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 24.05.2016, AD, normal route, 1 client.

unnamed peak, BO, Cordillera Apolobamba, 12.06.2016, 5200m, F, securing client on the short rope on the summital ridge.

Cuchillo, BO, Cordillera Apolobamba, 13.06.2016, PD, 5480m, eastern ridge, done during the trekking from pelechuco to curva, 1 client.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 166.06.2016, AD, normal route, 1 client, NB we were the only one on the real summit that day !

Khala Cruz, BO, Cordillera real, 5150m, 6b, 3 pitches, trad climbing, new route " patagonian sunset", marcelo Gomez.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 20.6.2016, west face, D, american route, full moon night, round trip vom casa blanca, Sebastian Rojas

Chachacomani, BO, Cordillera real, 6080m, 27.06.2016, normal route from alto cruz pampa, PD+, 1 client.

Khala Cruz, BO, Cordillera real, 5200m, 02.08.16, ridge climbing, 2 clients, we followed the SW ridge.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 04.08.2016, AD, normal route, 1 client.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 27.08.2016, AD, normal route, 1 client.

Illimani, BO, Cordillera Real, 6439m,01.09.2016, AD, normal route, 1 client, I cleaned as best i could "nido de condores".

Muella del Diablo, BO, La Paz surroundings, 3950m, 07.09.2016, 5c, 1 client.

Wila Llojeta, BO, Cordillera Real, 12.09.2016, PD, northern ridge from paso mullu, 1 client.

Jankho Huyo, BO, Cordillera Real, 13.09.2016, PD, southern slopes, 1 client, big penitentes fields !

Mullu Apacheta, BO, Cordillera Real, 14.09.2016, AD+, following a granite ridge, first ascent, great adventure !

Wila Lloje, BO, Cordillera Real, 15.09.2016, AD+, almost no snow, steep section under the summit.

Chachacomani, BO, Cordillera Real, 20.09.16, AD, from the chearoco valley, steeper beginning than normal route. lots of crevasses this year.

Jaco Siri, BO, Cordillera Real, 22.09.16, AD, first ascent ?, we followed a granite ridge and did the whole traverse.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 26.09.2016, AD, normal route, 1 client, cecilio daza with 2 other clients.

cerro Austria, BO, cordillera Reasl, 5310m,29.09.2016, F, normal route, 3 clients, we collected all the rubbish we found on the way down.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 06.10.2016, AD, normal route, 2 client.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 16.10.2016, AD, normal route, 2 client.
 

khala cruz, BO, Cordillera Real, 5150m, 23.10.16, 6b, 4 estaciones, first ascent, southern face of Khala cruz, Marcelo gomez.

pico Tarija, BO, cordillera Real, 5350m, 04.11.16, PD-, normal route, 2 clients

Volcan Tunupa, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 5150m, 10.11.16, F, route from tahua village, 7 clients.

cerro Qetena, BO, Cordillera Occidental,5760m, 12.11.16, F, improvised route on the eastern slopes, with my friend cristobal from alkaya expediciones, full moon night escape.

Volcan Uturuncu, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 6010m,13.11.16, F, normal route, vehicle helped us up to 5600m, 7 clients.

Volcan Licancabur, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 5923m,14.11.16, PD-, normal route, 7 clients.

Lullaillaco, CL, Cordillera Central, 6740m, 17.11.16, PD, normal route from the chilean side, 1 client, 1500m d+.

Khala cruz, BO, Cordillera Real, 5200m, 28.11.16, A2 - 6a+, el techito de la granja, damien freemantle, first ascent.

cerro adolfo calle, AR, Cordon del plata, 4265m, 07.12.16, F, norml route, 1 client.

cerro Bonete, AR, Cordillera Central, 5016m, 13.12.16, F, normal route, 1 client, it was snow covered.

cerro Aconcagua, AR, Cordillera Central, 6962m, 16.12.16,  F, normal route, 1 client, the traverse had no trail and prone to get into a slide.

cerro adolfo calle, AR, Cordon del plata, 4265m, end of january 17, F, norml route, 1 client.

cerro Bonete, AR, Cordillera Central, 5016m, 05.02.17, F, normal route, 1 client, it was snow covered.

volcan tunupa, BO, Cordillera occidental, 5150m, 01.03.17, F, access from tahua, 4 clients.

volcan sin nombre, BO, Cordillera occidental, 5570m, 03.03.17, F, Access from pass between polques and laguna verde, 4 clients.

Volcan Acotango, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 6050m, 07.03.17, F, Bad visibility on the way down, GPS really helpfull! 4 clients

Volcan Parinakhota, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 6335m, 09.03.17, F, had to break trail in snow starting at 6000m, 3 clients

Charquini circumnavigation, BO, Cordillera real, 5200m, 13.03.17, ski tour, one client

3 peak traverse, BO, Hampaturi,serkhe kollu and its 2 neighbours, 19.03.2017, 1500m altitude difference, technical parts and 6 rappels.

Huallomen, BO, Cordillera Real, 01.05.2017, 650m, TD, fresh snow, bad rock, topped out by night, Pacific machca and I

Huayna Potosi west spur, BO, Cordillera real, 10.05.2017, failed attempt with the uiagm aspirant course, supervision from aldo riveros.

Charquini, BO, Cordillera real, 16.05.2017, 4 pitches trad climbing FA on the South East Face, with Sergio Condori. Good rock !

Tunupa, BO, cordillera occidental, 31.05.2017, 5150m outlook point of Tunupa, ascent from Coqueza, ending point of a trek crossing the Uyuni Saltflat.

Illimani, BO, Cordillera real, 7-8-9 de Junio, ICE MEMORY glaciology project, making shure that safety recommendations are respected.

Piramide Blanca, BO, Cordillera real, 5200m, 13.06.2017, D-, directe route, Michael Ellis.

Unnamed peak - Condoriri region, BO, Cordillera real, 5300m, 14.06.2017, AD-, SW face, Cecilio Daza.

Condoriri - Cabeza del Condor, BO, Cordillera real, 5680m, 15.06.2017, D, directe route, Michael Ellis.

Unnamed peak - Condoriri region, BO, Cordillera real, 5300m, 16.06.2017, AD+, SE face, Michael Ellis.

Unnamed peak  - Calzada Massif, BO, Cordillera Real, 5658 y 5666m, 27.06.2017, PD+, traverse joining the 2 equally high peaks on the N side of the main summit, Thomas Wilken.

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, Cordillera Real, 5425m, 7/2017, AD, left at 4 a.m., where back at 10 a.m. !

Condoriri - Cabezza del Condor, BO, Cordillera Real, 5680m, 7/2017, AD, followed the SW ridge from the base

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 7/2017, AD+, We followed the South ridge route and ended on the South summit

Chearoco, BO, Cordillera real, 6127m, 7/2017, AD+, in a single push from BC.

Pomerape, BO, Cordillera occidental, 6240m, 7/2017, AD, SE ridge, miscommunication with the driver and we walked approx 20km extra !

Cerro Santiago, BO, Tunari region, 4300m, 7/2017, F, found many fossils on the way.

Volcan Tunupa, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 5150m, 25-26.1.18, F, route from tahua village, we tried twice and weather was clement the second time.

Volcan Pabellon, BO, Cordillera Occidental,5530m, 28.1.18, F, improvised route on the southern slopes,

Volcan Uturuncu, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 6010m,30.1.18, F, normal route, vehicle helped us up to 5300m, little snow storm

Volcan Licancabur, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 5923m,31.1.18, PD-, normal route.

Barrancas blancas, CL, paso san fransisco, 6040m, 10.2.18, PD, normal route starting at 5000m.

Aguja Negra, BO, Cordillera Real, AD, 24.3.18, 5400m, corkscrew from the Southern slope towards the west to the summit

Huallomen, BO, Cordillera Real, TD, 25.3.18, 5500m, british route, once we finsished the technical part in the gully we descended due to bad weather

Las Tenazas, BO, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, 5.4.18, Awicha, 6a, 5 pitches, 2 rappels 1x30m 1x60m

Cresta La Vertebra, BO, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, 6.4.18, we reached the ridge through its southern face.

Cresta Akapana, BO, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz,7.4.18, only belaying with ropes, no gear. 2 bolts in the crux

Cuernos del Diablo, BO, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, 8.4.18, 6a+, Taypi Khala, 6 pitches

Charquini, BO, Cordillera real, 03.05.2018, 5 pitches trad climbing FA on the East Face, with Jules Tusseau and Felix Leger.

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, Cordillera Real, 5425m, 25.05.18, AD, with Ludovic Petit and Marc Henriod. Their first high mountain experience !

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 27.05.18, AD-, with Ludovic Petit and Marc Henriod. Their first 6000m summit.

Ancohuma, BO, Cordillera real, various ascents, 06.2018, with Begnino Machaca, too much snow for the real summit, so we climbed 3 lower peaks.

Charquini, BO, Cordillera real, 29.06.2018, 6 pitches trad climbing FA on the East Face, with Juvenal Condori. intense climbing !

Volcan Acotango, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 6050m, 03.07.2018, F, we skied down ! with Benoit Lotter

Charquini, BO, Cordillera real, 12.07.2018, 5 pitches trad climbing FA on the East Face, with 2 clients.

Khasiri, BO, Cordillera real, 14.07.18, ridge climbing FA (?), from North-west to South-east, with Roberto Gomez

Cerro Saturno, BO, Cordillera real, 16.07.18, F, with Hugh and Michael, acclimatization tour, Saw the condor very closely.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 06.08.18, AD-, we climbed Huayna Potosi starting in Chairo at 1260m !

Volcan Tunupa, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 5150m, 14.8.18, F, route from tahua village.

Piramide Blanca, BO, Cordillera real, 5200m, 21.08.2018, AD-, normal route, Bradley smith.

cerro Austria, BO, cordillera Reasl, 5310m,14.09.2018, F, normal route, 7 clients, 4 guides.

Pico Tarija, BO, Cordillera Real, 5350m, 15.09.18, AD, 1 client on the way up, 3 clients ont he way down.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 17.09.18, AD-, 1 client, Their first 6000m summit.

Chachacomani, BO, Cordillera Real, 20.09.16, PD, we were the only group during the 4 days, crevasses were not an issue.

Volcan Acotango, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 6050m, 25.9.18, F, excellent conditions, 7 clients, 4 guides.

Volcan Parinakhota, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 6335m, 26.9.18, F, Penitentes in the upper part, 1 client, 1 cook and 2 IFMGA guides !

Cayambe volcano, Ecuador, 5793m, 20.11.18, PD, 2 clients, the highest point on the equatorial line.

Cotopaxi volcano, Ecuador, 5897m, 26.11.18, PD, 2 clients, almost empty on a monday morning.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 04.11.18, AD-, we climbed Huayna Potosi within 03h20 from the high camp refuge, and reached the summit right at sunrise.

Picacho Khasiri, BO, Cordillera real, 09.10.18, 9 pitches 6a+ FA (?),  with Juan Gabriel Estellano

Skitour Mururata, BO, Cordillera Real, 5890masl, normal route, F, 03/03/19, with Daniel Aramayo, Marie Pissort y Alejandro Escofie.

Cumbre Pass, BO, cordillera real, 5150m, 05.03.2019 , 6a+, 5 pitches trad climbing on a spur located on the east face Wila Manquilisani, Yannick Excoffon y Stephan

Picacho Khasiri, BO, Cordillera real, 07.04.19, 8 pitches 6a+ FA (?),  with Marcelo Gomez

Milluni ridge, BO, cordillera real, 5150m, 09.04.2019 , 6a+, 4 pitches trad climbing to reach the summit of milluni ridge, through the north face, Yannick Excoffon.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 10.04.19, AD+, we climbed the french route of Huayna Potosi  from the base camp refuge, and ascended most of the face while simul climbing.
 

Charquini, BO, Cordillera real, 29.04.2019, 4 pitches trad climbing FA on the East Face, with David Vitale.

Japa Japani, BO, Hampaturi-Cordillera Real, 5200masl, normal route, F, 8/5/19, 13 clients from estonia & Alexander von Ungern reached the top.

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, Cordillera Real, 5425m, 14/5/2019, D-, directe route with one client, with snow storm in the early morning! 1 client

Chachacomani, BO, Cordillera Real, 18.05.19, D+, Directe route in the south face, accessed by the col between Jakoceri and Chachacomani from the normal route, 1 client.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 22.05.19, D-, American Route in the West Face, we made a bivy at the base of the face, simul climbed it within 10H30, protected from the wind, 1 client.

Illimani, BO, Cordillera Real, 6439m,25.05.2019, AD+, integral traverse, made a bivy before and after the 13km long snowy ridge which contains 4 summits above 6000m, 1 client and Marcelo Gomez

Volcan Tunupa, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 5150m, 05.06.19, F, route from Coqueza village, 1150m altitude difference, 3 clients.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 27.06.19, AD-, we climbed in company of a young pup, which reached the summit in my backback.

 

Elbrus, RU, Caucasus, 5642m, 08.7.19, PD, whereas we summited with perfect weather on the 10th, we got caught into a snowstorm 3 days later, on a second attempt, with my second client.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 24.07.19, AD-, we started the ascent at 1200m altitude in Chairo, and reached the summit in a snowstorm a week later.

Vallunaraju, PE, Cordillera Blanca, 5680m, 07.08.09, with 2 clients, only the 4th day, after arriving at altitude.

 

Ishinca, PE, Cordillera Blanca, 5530m, 09.08.19, traverse from north west to south west.

 

Tocllaraju, PE, Cordillera Blanca, 6030m, 11.08.19, with one female client, 58 years old. She crushed it !

 

Huarapasca, PE, Cordillera Blanca, 5430m, 17.08.19, a stone destroyed my helmet on the way down.

cerro Austria, BO, cordillera Reasl, 5310m,27.08.2019, F, normal route, All 8 members of the group summited, 5 guides.

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, Cordillera Real, 5425m, 28/8/2019, AD+, normal route with one client. All 8 members of the group summited

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 30.08.19, AD-, normal route. All 8 members of the group summited.

 

Illimani, BO, Cordillera Real, 6439m,04.09.2019, AD+, normal route.

Volcan Tunupa, BO, Cordillera Occidental, 5150m, 24.09.19, F, route from Tahua village, 750m altitude difference, 3 clients.

Charquini, BO, Cordillera real, 01.10.2019, normal route from paso Zongo, with 3 clients and Cecilio Daza as additional guide.

Pequeño Alpamayo, BO, Cordillera Real, 5425m, 07/10/2019, AD+, normal route with one client.

Huayna Potosi, BO, Cordillera Real, 6094m, 11.10.19, AD-, normal route with one client.

Surapatilla, BO, Cordillera Real, 5457m, 15.10.19, AD+, ridge climbing from west to east, 1 client.

Humaciña, BO, Cordillera Real, 5483m,16.10.19, AD+,  We pitched out 3 55°rope length at the entrance of the glacier, and mixed climb along the eastern ridge, 1 client.

Pico Ilusion, BO, Cordillera Real, 5424m, 22/10/2019, AD+, northern ridge with one client. 

Aguja Negra, BO, Cordillera Real, 5400m, 23/10/2019, AD+, normal route with two client. 

Ala Izquierda, BO, Cordillera Real, 5550m, 24/10/2019, D-, directe route with one client. A condor came flying by, 3 minutes after reachig the summit

climbing andes bolivia tiwanaku trekking mountains summits

Andes Bolivia 6000 Summit climbing Huayna Potosi Illimani Condoriri nIllampu Ancohuma Uturunxu