Climb Illimani south summit 6442m altitude - Guardian of La Paz
day one: transfer from La Paz to the village "Pinaya" at 3800m. Even though it is only a 3-4 hours drive from the capital city, the village kept its autentical lifestyle. On the way to Pinaya you will cross the Palca canyon which will turn into an unexpected highlight of your trip. From "Pinaya" you will hike 3-4 hours (600m +d) to the base camp at 4400m.
Day two: After breakfast you will leave BC for the high camp "Nido de Condores". The trail first takes us to the col "Maikibirri" before we follow the ridge. The 1000m +d will take 5-6 hours and the rest of the day is left for setting the camp, drinking as much tea as possible and check your climbing gear. "Nido de condores" located at 5450m is the most beautiful High camp in Bolivia to our knowledge !
Day three: Early in the morning you will start the final ascent. First you will follow the ridge which is not technically difficult but exposed. After a break you will cross the crevassed glacier before you start climbing "stairways to heaven" a 200m +d, 50° slope. Getting out of it at 6300m the terrain gets easier along the final ridge before you reach the south summit at 6442m altitude.
Day four: If you don't feel like descending 2600m d- before driving an extra 3-4 hours to La Paz during the exhausting summit day we offer you the option to sleep once more at BC, enjoy "Pacha Manca" a Lamb cooked with hot stones under the earth by the locals and take it easy the next day, walking down to Pinaya and have a relaxed drive back to La Paz with many foto stops.
Described normal route:
AD-, avg. slope face 45°/50
Pico del Indio, north face:
AD+, avg. slope 50°/60°
6km, avg. altitude 6100m !
Just above the Bergschrund ~6300m
Illimani from Palca canyon
a little help from your mules
comfortable Base camp
Porters can save you a lot of energy
High camp "Nido de Condores"
home sweet home
rare sight Illimani from behind
Reaching south summit